It let me know I could keep going and do even bigger things.Now, Thelma Balfour, the author who brought you Black Sun Signs, presents a light-hearted and illuminating look at relationship, love, and sex under the stars. Those people changed my life, it’s not just about sales. So much of my work has come through referral, one person telling someone else and spreading the word. “Whether it’s the guy who finds you on Instagram or the woman who tells her partner, ‘Thelma has to make my engagement ring,’ it matters to me. “When people reach out to me and discover my work or simply send a positive message, it’s incredible,” she says. So much love has come out of that moment, especially from within the Black community.” That support has been significant for West. Then seeing a cultural icon like Rihanna at the Met gala wearing something I’d created was just overwhelming-it still is overwhelming. “I’ve gone from being that newbie flipping through the Sotheby’s magnificent-jewels catalog to showing my work there. “It’s been an amazing experience and an absolute blessing,” she says. With her private clientele placing orders for bespoke pieces and stars like Zendaya, Rihanna, and Uzo Aduba all sporting her wares, West appreciates the journey that led her to this. Her sleek diamond necklaces and icy rings occupy the sweet spot between ultra-minimalist jewelry and big-ticket bling, which means there’s something for everyone. In the Rebel Black ring Photo: Getty ImagesĪt present, West has everyone’s attention. The more you learn about these stones, the more fascinating they become.” “We’re always told that diamonds are the hardest material, but once you start working with them, you realize how much care it takes not to chip them or cause a flaw. “Growing up, I saw diamonds as a thing of beauty, but once you learn the science behind them and the way that nature can create something with so magnificent, it adds another level,” says West, who quickly discovered that some of the widely accepted diamond facts were far from true. I’m lucky to have come into it during a time when things are beginning to change.” The science of gemology also proved fascinating. “ it was eye-opening to understanding how these gems are mined, by who, and where we are within the industry. “Being African, I have a firsthand understanding of the importance of these gemstones and what they mean within our cultures,” she says. Historically, the diamond industry has exploited workers and natural resources across the continent, something West was keenly aware of. I did know that the best path into the industry was to get an education.” Diamonds emerged as West’s focus their mystique was as crucial as their connection to her heritage. “I just knew I wanted to work with diamonds and gems, but at the time I didn’t know what capacity that would be. “I was so young I didn’t have a major plan,” she says. Though she knew that a career in jewelry was her destiny, West didn’t enter the business to become a designer. It was fascinating, and once I was a little older, she started to put pieces on me too if there was a party or big event. “I would watch my mother and notice the way she put things together, how she mixed pieces and selected each element of her look carefully. “I was surrounded by women who expressed themselves through fashion and accessories,” says West. Her mother, grandmother, and their friends embraced color and print to create vibrant outfits that commanded attention. Their stories inform so much of my work-I don’t think I’d even do this if the creations weren’t ultimately about people.” Indeed West’s introduction to jewels came courtesy of her family’s inner circle in Lagos. What I’m envisioning is modern, cool, connected to my clients’ lives. “Before the year is out, I’ve got to create a tiara,” West shared on the phone from London. Still, the rising star is hard at work considering the future of the crown. With fans like Rihanna, who accessorized her Balenciaga cape at this year’s Met gala with one of West’s ceramic-and-diamond Black Rebel rings, and a prominent place in Sotheby’s “Brilliant and Black” exhibition back in September, West is experiencing a banner year. West’s eponymous label focuses on elegant yet outré pieces fit for the grandest events. Until recently, the list of creators within this insular community has been predominantly white and male, but Nigerian-born, London-based designer Thelma West is changing all that. Only a handful of brands operate at the highest levels, and their access to the finest materials allows them to create wearable art.
Precious metals and gemstones have been status symbols for centuries, but the world of bling is surprisingly small.
For many people, fine jewelry is the ultimate fashion statement.
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